REVELATIONS-skin barrier

Your skin barrier is constantly working to protect your skin. These are some of its most important functions that CURB premature aging: 

HYDRATION 

DESQUAMATION/CELL RENEWAL

ANTIOXIDANT 

ANTIMICROBIAL 

PHOTOPROTECTIVE 

The dense "brick and mortar" skin barrier helps to keep water IN your skin. Although there will always be a small amount of water that "leaks" out (TEWL), you want it kept to a minimum.

  It is crucial to ensure this function is working at peak performance because other skin barrier functions depend on hydration to work effectively.

At curbAGE skincare, we consider this the first "problem" to tackle when restoring a skin barrier. Hydration is key, and is exactly what our QUENCHER serums do! INTENSE HYDRATION

TransEpidermal Water Loss is the continuous process of water evaporating from inside the body through the epidermis. Simply put, TEWL is dehydration of the skin. 

You can use TEWL as a measure of how well your skin barrier is functioning.

LOW TEWL means a strong and healthy barrier.

HIGH TEWL indicates a compromised barrier, leading to premature aging.

TEWL can be caused by everything from the overuse of harsh ingredients to dry environments.

 Once skin cells make their way to the surface of the skin and have completed their journey, they are ready to shed. Then they send a signal to the mother cell for a replacement. This is the natural cycle of skin cells: they make their way up, shed, and a new one starts its journey.

However, this entire process depends on ONE thing: well-hydrated skin!

If your skin is properly hydrated and your barrier is in a healthy state,  NO harsh products are needed to force this function to happen.  Just let the skin perform the natural cycle that it's been doing for thousands of years. The best part, this function saves you TIME and MONEY by streamlining your skincare routine.

The skin barrier has its own antioxidant network to protect us from the damage that environmental stressors can cause. 

The two most recognizable antioxidants that the skin naturally produces are:

VITAMIN C &  E-  These prominent antioxidants protect the skin from free radical damage.

In a perfect world, our skin could handle these free radicals on its own; however, the atmosphere we live in, along with our lifestyle habits, is far too much for the skin without some support. 

All of the curbAGE serums contain plant-based antioxidants for extra support.

This particular function is especially important for those with sensitive skin or those prone to breakouts.

By acting as a physical barrier, this function neutralizes bacteria and fungi before they can cause problems.

 A healthy lipid matrix plays an important role in this function as it's the "mortar" that holds the skin cell "bricks" tightly together. This dense fortress keeps pathogens from penetrating the skin and reduces the inflammation that causes redness, irritation, and breakouts. 

Both of the curbAGE skincare BUILER serums contain the lipids needed to support the barrier's antimicrobial function.

Photoprotective means helping protect your skin from the effects of sunlight. Here are some of the ways the skin barrier helps with this: 

PHYSICAL- The dense "brick and mortar" acts as a first line of defense to reflect and absorb a fraction of visible light before the UV rays can reach the living cells.

ANTIOXIDANT- Vitamins C & E in particular help neutralize reactive oxygen species and mitigate oxidative damage.

*Your skin barrier, however, CANNOT prevent damage or skin cancer from occurring. curbAGE skincare serums are NOT a sunscreen. Please use caution when out in the sun for a prolonged period.

A simplified story of how the skin builds a brick wall of protection.

At the base of the epidermis, a "mother" cell divides into "daughter" cells, and they start their journey upward. 

Most of these cells become skin cells that make up your skin barrier. 

During their journey, they will receive nutrients that are needed for their final destination.

As the skin cells continue upward toward the surface, they will begin to expel their nutrients and flatten out. 

Finally, they reach the top layer, the SKIN BARRIER:  the cells have now completely flattened out and become skin cell "bricks"; their nutrients now become the lipid "mortar" that holds them in place. This is our skin's wall of protection.

When your skin cells reach the surface, they have expelled all of their nutrients. These nutrients create a "lipid matrix" that holds your skin cell "bricks" in place. The balance of this lipid matrix is very important; if it gets out of harmony, so does your skin. The lipid matrix is made from: 50% CERAMIDES, 25% CHOLESTEROL, and 25% FATTY ACIDS. As we age, the amount and balance of these lipids begin to decline, and the barrier starts to lose support. It's important to replace them EXACTLY as they're designed. Both of our serum systems use this EXACT LIPID MATRIX to support your barrier.

These lipids are the most important structural lipids of the skin barrier, as they make up 50% of the "mortar". Unfortunately, by the time we turn 30, we have lost close to 40% of our ceramide production. That's why it is important to reinforce your barrier with skin-identical ceramides.

At curbAGE skincare, we take a two-fold approach to replace lost ceramides: we replenish them with plant-based topical ceramides, while NIACINAMIDE helps speed up your skin's own natural production.  Our QUENCHER serums will give you both of these benefits to help strengthen and support your skin barrier.

Yes, cholesterol is good for your skin!

Remember, the balance of the lipid matrix is important. curbAGE skincare includes skin-identical, plant-based cholesterol in our QUENCHER serums at 25% to balance the matrix ratio.

*This is especially important for the millions of women who are on statin-lowering medication. These drugs can deplete the cholesterol in your skin as well.

There are many different fatty acids. However, our concern when it comes to the skin barrier is the two ESSENTIAL FATTY ACIDS (EFAs). EFAs cannot be produced by our body, so we must get them from our diet or topical application. 

 The EFA we focus on when building a strong barrier is OMEGA-6, linoleic acid,  because this is what the skin uses to create ceramides. If your skin is lacking this fatty acid, then it has to turn to OMEGA-9, oleic acid instead. Over time, this creates an imbalance in the skin that leads to a compromised barrier. We cannot restore harmony without adding OMEGA-6 back. Our BUILDER serums are rich in this fatty acid, particularly RASPBERRY SEED OIL and CRANBERRY SEED OIL.

This multitasking skin hero is scientifically proven to:

Increase the natural production of ceramides.

Reduces TEWL.

Smooths surface structure, including fine lines and pores.

Strengthens elasticity.

Reduce redness and inflammation.

*When added to a formula with NAG, you get the benefit of reducing visible discoloration. *See N-Acetyl Glucosamine for more info.

NAG is an amino sugar that:

BRIGHTENS: by blocking the pathways to melanin discoloration.

HYDRATES: by replenishing the skin's natural moisture level.

FIRMS: helps the skin increase its natural cell turnover, which enhances elasticity and smoothness.

*Research shows 2% NAG added to a formulation with 4% Niacinamide fades and prevents hyperpigmentation. This is exactly how the BRIGHTENING QUENCHER is formulated.

 Humectants draw moisture from the air to help with hydration. When the atmosphere is dry, they may begin pulling water from the lower layers of your skin, creating TEWL (dehydration). This is especially concerning for the thousands of people who stay indoors with central air, as there is no moisture to pull from.

  At curbAGE, we use gentle humectants along with Panthenol in both of our QUENCHERS serums. This combination is strong enough to pull moisture, but gentle enough not to cause TEWL.  

 Remember, essential means our bodies cannot produce them, so we must get them from our diets or topical application.

OMEGA-6, linoleic acid, is known as a key building block for ceramides; our barrier would not be a brick wall without it. 

For those who are prone to breakouts, this fatty acid can balance the lipids on your skin, giving it essential lipids and stopping the overproduction of unwanted oil.

   OMEGA-3, alpha-linolenic acid, is best known for its ability to slow inflammation. In turn, this reduces redness and irritation.

Both of our BUILDER serums are rich in EFAs.

Even though it's called JOJOBA OIL, jojoba is actually a liquid wax made primarily of waxy esters-not fatty acids. 

 Research has shown these waxy esters closely resemble those found in human sebum, allowing jojoba to replenish, strengthen, and support the skin barrier.

Studies have also shown that jojoba oil helps calm inflammation, making it especially beneficial for sensitive skin and those prone to redness and irritation.

Its remarkable similarity to our skin's own natural sebum is why jojoba oil is at the heart of every BUILDER serum.

PUNICIC ACID, OMEGA-5, is found in pomegranate seed oil. Research has shown that this fatty acid has anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and photoprotective properties. These same studies show that punicic acid improves regeneration by stimulating cellular proliferation and repairing the underlying dermis. It also decreases the damaging effects caused by UV radiation. However, the most impressive benefit of this fatty acid is its ability to inhibit the breakdown of collagen by suppressing the enzymes known to cause damage.

 Both BUILDER serums contain POMEGRANATE SEED OIL.

Phytonutrients are naturally occurring compounds sourced from unrefined plant oils. All of these nutrients can be found in our BUILDER serums.

When applied topically, these bioactive compounds deliver their benefits directly to the skin and play a critical part in RESTORING and STRENGTHENING the skin barrier.

Research shows that they work together as a "network" to provide antioxidant protection, soothe inflammation, and combat microbial imbalance to maintain healthy skin.

These phytonutrients can be found in RICE BRAN OIL. 

FERULIC ACID is a strong antioxidant that can absorb light from UV rays and neutralize free radicals. This inhibits damage from oxidative stress. It is also shown to be effective at reducing discoloration from previous sun exposure.

GAMMA-ORYZANOL studies have shown that it can protect the underlying layers of the skin by diminishing the enzymes that attack collagen and elastin after sun exposure.

RICE BRAN OIL is the base of our PROTECTING BUILDER.

ANTIOXIDANT POWER: Research has shown that these highly pigmented phytonutrients have significantly stronger antioxidant capabilities than vitamin C. 

INFLAMMATION PROTECTION: Influences signaling pathways that regulate the inflammation response. 

VISIBLE BENEFITS: Clinical studies have shown they can reduce the appearance of wrinkles, minimize sun spots, and improve elasticity.

Carotenoids can be found in both BUILDER serums by way of Raspberry, Cranberry, and Pomegranate Seed Oil.

These plant nutrients are structurally similar to human cholesterol. Phytosterols provide dual benefits:

ANTIOXIDANT: Directly neutralizes free radicals that can damage skin and accelerate aging. 

ANTI-INFLAMMATORY: Reduce the production of cytokines that can trigger redness, irritation, and tissue damage.

PHYTOSTEROLS can be found in all of our BUILDER serums, especially Cranberry, Pomegranate, and Raspberry Seed Oil.

These nutrients are skin-identical molecules that are an integral part of the skin's barrier and sebum.

Being hygroscopic (water-binding), phospholipids attract water, helping with hydration.

Forming lamellar layers similar to the skin helps structurally support the barrier function.

Found in both BUILDER serums, Cranberry Seed Oil is rich in these phytonutrient lipids.

These are a diverse group of nutrients with multiple protective properties: 

ANTIOXIDANT: Neutralize free radicals and also stimulate the skin's own antioxidant enzymes.

ANTI-INFLAMMATORY: They suppress inflammatory signaling, which reduces redness, swelling, and irritation.

ANTIMICROBIAL: Provides multiple benefits by protecting skin from bacterial and fungal invasion.

These nutrients can be found in both BUILDER serums. 

Otherwise known as vitamin E. These nutrients are known as the OG of antioxidants. They are in ALL plant oils to a varying degree. 

FREE RADICAL PROTECTION: by neutralizing reactive radicals caused by the sun, pollution, and environment. 

SOOTHING: by calming irritation, reducing inflammatory response, and supporting skin recovery after stress or an injury.

Tocopherols are essential in maintaining long-term skin health.

Squalene with an E is a skin-identical phytonutrient called a terpenoid and is found in various plant oils. In humans, this is part of our sebum system.

This phyto lipid can replenish the natural lipids that decline with age, keeping the skin barrier flexible and resilient. It also offers antioxidant defense and can inhibit inflammation, keeping redness and irritation to a minimum.

Squalane with an A is a lab-produced lipid that can support the barrier but does not possess lab-produced antioxidant or anti-inflammatory benefits.

Both BUILDER serums contain squalene and lab-produced squalane for barrier support. 

Dermatology studies have shown that COQ10 can penetrate the skin's lipid layers, helping protect against sun-induced damage and the appearance of discoloration.

Research also suggests that COQ10 supports collagen and elastin production, helps strengthen the barrier, and helps to reduce TEWL. Its powerful antioxidant activity is why we include it in our PROTECTING BUILDER to help defend the skin from daily environmental stress while supporting a healthier skin barrier.

Do you have oily skin that just keeps getting oilier? Why?

 Because when your skin is oily, your first instinct is to strip away the excess  oil with harsh products. The problem is you strip away the ESSENTIAL lipids it needs, so it produces more oil to compensate. 

 As this cycle repeats, the missing essential lipids cause the barrier to become compromised, creating inflammation, congestion, and breakouts.

So what can you do? 

Fight oil with oil- or more specifically, with the ESSENTIAL lipids.  Remember, essential means our bodies can not produce these fatty acids. We must get them from our diets or through topical application. Once your skin has the EFAs it needs, it no longer feels the need to over-produce oil. This is called BALANCING your barrier lipids.

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An emulsifier is an ingredient that binds oil and water together to make a cream. In skincare, it serves a functional purpose for the formula but provides no benefits to your skin. In fact, it may contribute to skin barrier disruption. 

 Emulsifiers can interfere with the lipid layers of your skin barrier (the "mortar"), dissolving ceramides and other protective lipids, disrupting the skin barrier structure. This can weaken the barrier, increase TEWL, and may lead to dryness, redness, and irritation.

At curbAGE skincare our serums are intentionally formulated with the oil and water phases separated. This helps protect your skin barrier while allowing you to customize your moisturizer based on your skin's changing needs. 

Two serums, one personal moisturizer.

 This is a transparency post about skincare preservatives. Unfortunately, there is a lot of misinformation surrounding this important ingredient.

 Let's start with one simple fact:  If a skincare product contains water, it MUST contain a  PRESERVATIVE to keep you SAFE!

 PERIOD! 

At curbAGE skincare, we use what cosmetic chemists call a "hurdle approach" to preserve our QUENCHER serums. This combines multiple techniques that work together to protect both you and your product from contamination.

We use a skin-safe preservative, a preservative booster, proper pH, airless pump bottles, and independently test each formula. 

At curbAGE skincare, your safety is our highest priority. After reviewing science-based studies, consulting physicians in family and reproductive medicine, and discussing our options with cosmetic chemists, we intentionally chose phenoxyethanol as the preservative in our QUENCHER serums. 

Based on the available scientific evidence, we believe it is the safest choice.

Much of the concern surrounding phenoxyethanol has been misunderstood or taken out of context. Below is one of many studies that we reviewed. 

pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov

Safety review of Phenoxyethanol when used as a preservative in skincare. 2019 Nov. B. Dreno

If you would like more information or have any questions, please reach out to us curbage@comcast.net.

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